Author Archives: Rasmus Nielsen

Presentation of goose decoys

Goose decoys from Lucky hunter

At Lucky Hunter, we have a wide range of goose hunting gear. This includes game calls, hunting blinds, and many kinds of goose decoys. With so many decoys to choose from, hunters often ask themselves, ‘What should I choose?”

That’s why we’ve created this blog post, so you can get an overview of the different types of goose decoys, what they can do and how we use them.

Are you more into watching a video? Then click here and go to our series “Goose Hunting – How to get started.

Full body goose decoys


  • Very visible.
  • Incredibly lifelike.
  • Realistic movement.


  • Difficult to carry.
  • Often more expensive than other types.
  • Takes up a lot of space.

About Full body shells

Most hunters who practice goose hunting know that the use of decoys is almost a necessity. Full body goose decoys in particular are a “must have” if you really want to be successful with goose hunting.

A full body decoy is, as the name suggests, a decoy made in full figure – So a 3D goose, if you will. Often these geese are incredibly realistic, both in carving, body pose, and paint. In addition, they always come with a mounting stick that they can tilt and move on. These lifelike details and realistic movement make them the most important weapon of any goose hunter, especially when hunting shy goose species, such as greylag geese.

Full Body decoys should be used closest to the “landing zone” you create in your setup. This is where the live geese come closest, and therefore here it is important to have completely lifelike decoys.

Goose shell decoys


  • Stackable and easy to pack.
  • Relatively cheap.
  • Good for hiding dead birds under.


  • No or minimal movement.
  • Lack of realism.

About Goose shells

Goose shells are a bit like Full Body decoys, but they are hollow and lack the belly/underside, to be completely realistic. Many goose shells are also supplied without mounting pins and therefore do not move. In return, goose shells can be stacked on top of each other and are therefore a lot easier to carry out to the hunting area. For that reason, they are often used mixed in with full body decoys, to create more volume in the setup at a lower price

Another little tip is that you can hide the shot geese under your goose shells. Something that can really pay off if the geese are nervous about landing while there are dead geese in your setup.

Windsocks / Sillosocks


  • Adds movement to the setup.
  • Easy to pack and transport.
  • Visible from far away
  • Durable plastic head


  • Not ultra-realistic.
  • Not suitable to be used on its own.

About Windsocks/Sillosocks

Windsocks or Sillosocks are a type of decoy best known for adding movement to the decoy setup. The decoys are roughly made like a bag, with a print that looks like a goose. When you are hunting, the bags are filled by the wind, so they move realistically from side to side, and this is the effect we are looking for. Mixed together with other types of goose decoys, it gives the illusion of geese walking around inbetween other geese

The Sillosocks weigh practically nothing, so they are super easy to transport. In return, they are best suited to mix with other decoy geese. Both because they are not ultra-realistic to look at, but also because it is unnatural if the whole flock moves at once.

Silhouette decoys


  • Light weight and adds volume
  • Easy to pack and transport.
  • Life-like print on plastic.


  • Not suitable to be used on its own.
  • No movement.

About Silouette decoys

Silhouette goose decoys are essentially “cardboard discs” with a realistic goose print on them, and they are available for all huntable species. This is of course not completely true, as the material is very strong and weather resistant.

The advantage of silhouette decoys is the same as with windsocks – You can recreate a large flock of geese resting and eating without having to carry a lot of weight. The difference is that the silhouettes do not move in the wind, which is why they are good to mix in between your sillosocks so that not all your decoys move. The geese can perceive too much movement as a signal that there is danger on the way and that the flock is about to take off

The silhouette decoys are placed so that they point in different directions. If they all point in the same direction, there will be an angle where they “disappear” when the real geese fly over them. In return, they look like more than you would think when you angle them differently.

Here we use Silhouettes and Sillosocks to a great extent, mixing them into our setup:

Flapper decoys


  • Adds movement to the spread.
  • Can be seen from far away.
  • Perfect for days with medium wind.


  • Not suitable to be used on its own.
  • Often more expensive than other types.

About Flapper decoys

Goose flapper decoys are designed to mimic the motion of a goose flapping its wings as if it is about to land or take off. This movement is a critical visual signal to other geese flying overhead, suggesting that the area is a safe and suitable place to land. By replicating this natural behavior, flapper decoys aim to make a decoy spread more realistic and enticing to geese, encouraging them to join what they perceive as other geese preparing to land or having just landed.

This movement can be particularly effective because geese are social birds and often look for cues from others when choosing a landing spot. The flapping action suggests activity and the presence of geese either settling in or preparing to leave, which can trigger an instinctive response in wild geese to join the group.

Here you can see how the barnacle flappers really add movement to the setup:

We hope that this blog post has given you a little more insight into what the different types of decoy geese can do, and how and why we use them.

Trail Camera Test – Spypoint

Testing trail cameras

At Lucky-Hunter, we always like to provide the best service to our customers! Especially in the trail camera field, as it can feel like a bit of a jungle for the users. Therefore we have made a ” trail camera test” of the all our Spypoint cameras. That way you can easily see how they perform, on a number of different specs. We did this test so that you can more easily choose the right game camera for your needs. Of course, the test also helps us to provide the right advice to European hunters.

How we did the test

As I said, we have tested the game cameras on a number of the most important specs, which is: Image quality (day & night), detection range, and trigger speed.

We have solved the task by setting up all the trail cameras in the same area. We have divided them into 2 “camera trees” as seen below. Then we have walked in front of the cameras, on the 3 distances, 5, 15 and 25 meters. First in daylight and then in the dark.

With this approach to the task, we see both the range that the camera triggers at, the image quality at 3 distances, both day and night, and the trigger speed. (which determine if the “animal” is located in frame, when the picture is taken)

1 of the 2 “camera trees” we set up for the test.

The result of the test

Here we present the results from each individual camera, and make a brief description of it. This way you are able to compare the results against each other and see which trail camera, that suits you best.
Remember that the best game camera is the one that suits your needs – that’s why we do not choose a “Test winner” in the trail camera test

Spypoint Link-Micro Solar

This trail/game camera from spypoint is an upgrade of the popular Link-Micro that many hunters know. The upgrade consists of an internal Lithium battery and not least a built-in solar panel, which keeps the battery charged using the sun

Spypoint Link-Micro Solar – Find it here

  • Distance detection range 25 meters
  • 10 megapixels
  • Fast recording speed 0.4 second
  • Fast 4G (LTE) network transmission of images

As you can see in the pictures below, “Link-Micro Solar” performs well on the 3 points. The camera holds up to the promised detection range and captures movement at a distance of 25 meters, both night and day. The trigger speed is decent, which means that the subject is “within the frame” at all 3 distances. The quality of the images is as we know from this series of spypoints, and must be considered reasonable. All in all, a nice performance. Especially considering that you get a rechargeable battery, solar panel and a game camera that can send the pictures to you, at a good price.

Spypoint Link-Micro LTE

The Link-Micro camera from Spypoint is probably one of the most popular game cameras on the market. The reason for that must be found in the fact that the camera is affordable and can send to Spypoint’s well-functioning app.

Spypoint Link-Micro – Find it here

  • Range up to 25 meters
  • 10 megapixels
  • Fast recording speed 0.5 second
  • Fast 4G (LTE) network transmission of images
  • Free App

The pictures below shows what you can expect from a Spypoint Link Micro. The game camera performs well during the day, with fine images at both 5-15 & 25 meters, but in the evening it falls a little short. The images from a distance of 5 and 15 meters are fine, but not distinctly detailed, and from 25 meters it was not possible to get an image in this test. It must be said that we have seen plenty of pictures from that distance, from the same camera, but truth must be truth when we test. Finally, it must be said that this result must be held up against the fact that the Link Micro is one of the cheapest game cameras that can send pictures to a good app solution. So that way, you still get a lot for your money

Spypoint Force Pro

With a Force Pro from Spypoint, you get a rock-solid game camera, with a full 30 megapixels and 4k video recording. In addition, it has one of the fastest trigger speeds on the market and it is really easy to deal with.

Spypoint Force Pro – Find it here

  • Trigger speed 0.2 sec.
  • Video recording in 4K quality
  • 30 megapixel photo
  • Record range 25 meters

As the pictures below show, this trail camera passes the test in great style. The images are of a good quality and the subject is centered in the image, both night and day. In addition, this game camera holds up to the promised range of 25 meters. This camera is set up a little lower than the previous one, and therefore the whole subject is not in the picture, at 5 meters. This is a our fault and has nothing to do with the camera’s performance.

Spypoint Solar DARK

With the new Spypoint SOLAR DARK, you get one of the market’s most reliable and compact game cameras. The camera has a built-in solar panel and a rechargeable battery, so you can significantly reduce the cost of batteries. It’s a win for both the environment and your wallet.

The solar panel can supply power to the cameras even without direct sunlight. This is absolutely perfect if your Spypoint camera needs to be placed under a tree and / or in the shade.

Spypoint Solar DARK – Find it here

  • 12 megapixels
  • Flash range 28 meters
  • Video in full HD 1080p
  • Audio on video recordings

In relation to the fact that you get a relatively cheap game camera with solar panel and rechargeable battery. Then the results are quite good. The Solar DARK camera has taken both day and night pictures at all 3 distances and the quality is approved. The trigger speed also looks really reasonable, as the subject is centered on all 6 images. There is not much that distinguishes this game camera from “Link-Micro Solar”. The biggest difference is that this camera does not have a sending function, in return it is cheaper.

We hope you got something out of our trail camera test. If you have any further questions about wildlife cameras in general, please feel free to contact us. Remember that good service is always part of the package at Lucky-Hunter
Happy Hunting

Duck hunting in September

September = Duck hunting

A duck hunting report by Rasmus from Lucky-Hunter

Finally, it was the 1st of September and the hunting season was about to start! With a newly acquired right to hunt on a large lake, the choice for the hunting style was quite easy. The first morning was to be spent duck hunting with decoys – It turned out to be a good choice.

Preparation for the hunt

In the days leading up to the hunting season, I had talked to Søren from Lucky-Hunter about how the hunt could be approached. We looked at maps of the hunt, weather forecasts, and equipment that would make sense to bring.

Due to the size of the lake, decoys were needed to try to steer any ducks into range. For the sake of the “work” of towing all the gear, I chose that I would like to settle for a relatively small set-up, in a good quality. So we found just enough decoys to fit in a single bag. We also spiced up the set-up with a couple of the different “motorized decoys” and a duck call for maximum effect. Specifically, I brought: 8 Avian-X Mallard10 Avian-X Teal1 Lucky Duck Agitator1 Lucky Duck Splasher1 Mallard duck call

The joy of anticipation

The evening before the hunt, my father and I were out at the hunting area to make a little boat ready by the lake. We hadn’t actually seen the hunting area before and I have to say that we were pleasantly surprised! First of all, we were greeted by fantastic nature in the fine late summer weather. In addition, there were both ducks and geese in the lake, and despite the fact that it was only 7 O clock, the flight was already underway. About 50-70 mallards laid exactly where we had planned to hunt in the morning. So expectations were well raised when we drove home to bed.

A fantastic duck hunt

The morning started at 03:20 in the morning, when the alarm clock rang. The gear was already packed and ready, and the only thing that had to happen before departure was to jump into the hunting gear and get the shotgun from the gun cabinet.

At 4:00 we were four eager hunters and an even more eager labrador, by the small boat. So, with headlamps on, hunters, gundog and decoys were loaded into the boat and the trip went 150 meters out to a small island located in the middle of the lake.

With solid ground under our feet, we headed another 100 meters down the island to the chosen spot, where we had seen ducks the night before. The decoys were laid out to the best of our ability. The idea was to make a formation with a good landing zone, and also within a good shooting distance. The formation consisted of two groups of decoys, with a good gap between them, so that the real ducks had room to land. In addition, both the “Agitator” and the “Splasher” were turned on, and placed in each group of decoys.

Satisfied with the formation of decoys, there was nothing to do but wait and see if any ducks would come into shooting range.

The first ducks arrive

Quite soon after the decoys were placed, it was shooting time and the guns were loaded and the senses sharpened. Although it was still to dark to see anything, the mallards could be heard in several places on the large lake. So expectations were still sky high.

15 minutes into the duck hunting season, the characteristic sound of ducks flapping their wings could be heard quite close, and out of the darkness came two mallards. The ducks were well in range, but we let them pass by to see if they would come down to the decoys. The first few ducks didn’t want to do that, and instead they flew onwards.

Fortunately, we didn’t have to wait long before a lone duck was on the wings. It had now become a little brighter, and the duck saw the decoys from far away, and steered straight towards us. As it hung 10 meters above the decoys, a single shot rang out, and the dead mallard marked the start of the season.

A good flight

The first duck had been delivered, and now things were going fast! For the next half hour, there were good numbers of both mallards and teal on the wings. Most of the ducks saw the decoys, from a long distance, and came in nicely at very reasonable distances. This resulted in the young labrador being busy fetching ducks. At one point we had to break the gun and help the dog, to not confuse it with too many shots/dead birds.

Just as quickly as the good part of the flight had started, it ended again. It gave us time to stand and talk about the experience we had just had.

Cool situations

While we were just standing and chatting, we could see that the ducks were still flying around the lake. The flocks had become smaller and there were not as many, but there were still birds in the air. So we loaded up and got back in place. Now we had to wait a little longer for the chances, but in return we got some of the best situations of the morning, as everyone’s eyes were on single birds.

The best situation for me, was when I called a duck in to our dog handler. He had been busy directing the dog, and therefore hadn’t really gotten a shot all morning. So i said that I would try the duck call and see if I could call in a duck for him.

I called to the best of my ability and 3 mallards, which had otherwise been in a safe area, took to the wings and came towards us. The ducks were curious, but still shy after the morning’s shootings. So they kept a safe distance as they circled to find out where the call came from.

After a few rounds, two of the ducks pulled away and flew back out of range. The last duck however, took a few more rounds, and now started calling. I tried to imitate the duck’s call, and could immediately see a reaction. After a few minutes in total, the duck finally decided to come in to the decoys and the dog handler was able to get it in a nice shot while the rest of us watched – What an end to a great morning hunt!

Pictures from the hunt

Optifade Camouflage – Blog post

What is Optifade?

Optifade is a very special camouflage pattern, developed by W.L Gore, which is probably best known for the “Gore-TEX” membrane, which is used in a lot of hunting equipment.

What makes the optifade camouflage so special is that it is based on the game’s eyesight and perception of the world. Unlike the other brands and patterns which are made from the human point of view.

When taking a look at “Realtree” and “Mossy Oak”, which are two of the big players when it comes to camouflage patterns (which is a whole industry in itself). We can see that their patterns are made to reflect something as we humans perceive it. For example, a tree, leaves, shrubs or reeds, which the pattern is made to look like. Of course, this makes good sense, as a hunter, from our point of view, will be hidden when he uses the pattern in the right environment – but are we sure that the animals see the world just like us?

That was the question the people at W.L Gore asked themselves when they had to make their own camouflage. The result was the optifad, which is a “camouflage concept” developed based on the views of the individual game species. The development took place with the help of researchers and other experts in the field, to ensure optimal efficiency.

“The science of nothing”

Due to the above, the optifade does not look like the traditional camouflage patterns, and with human eyes, it actually doesn´t look very “realistic”. The patterns are more pixelated to look at, and do not really look like anything, and that is actually the whole idea of it. The people at W.L Gore have made the patterns so that the hunter, looks like nothing, rather than the other brands, which try to make the hunter look like something. Hence their slogan “The science of nothing”

Optifade is available in a number of different patterns, each of which has been developed for special forms of hunting. There is, for example, one for mountain hunting, hunting in open terrain and one for duck and goose hunting.

In this post, we will focus on “Optifade Marsh”, which has been developed specifically for duck and goose hunting.

Optifade Patterns

What is so special about the Optifade Marsh?

Optifade Waterfowl Marsh is a specially developed camouflage pattern that takes into account how ducks and geese see the world beneath them.

The pattern makes you unrecognizable in the eyes of your prey, as it is based on the visual abilities of ducks and geese. Instead of a pattern that makes you look like your surroundings, like most other camo patterns, the OPTIFADE makes the hunter appear like “nothing”.

GORE ™ teamed up with the best biologists in animal vision and leading experts in military camouflage to develop a pattern that not only hides the hunter, but actually makes him / her disappear, in the eyes of the animals, and it seems that they are succeeded in the task. “Optifade Marsh” can now be found at some of the most prominent manufacturers of equipment for duck and goose hunting.

How it works

Birds are particularly sensitive to color and continuity with their surroundings. Therefore, the Marsh pattern is made to confuse the birds’ vision. In particular, the colors have been manipulated to create a great depth.

Duck and goose hunting often takes place in an environment with great contrasts in light and colors. For example, skylights from the horizon or sunlight reflected from the water surface will create concentrated light spots. To fall into that environment, “Optifade Marsh” uses both elements that are light in color and elements that are darker in color. It gives as natural an expression as possible.

While most other patterns are designed, assuming the game is on the ground and looking at the hunter. Then “Optifade Marsh” takes into account that the birds are usually in motion, and also are above the hunter, during the approach. Therefore, the pattern in “Optifade Marsh” is more vertical than camouflage patterns designed for, for example, hunting deer.

The video here gives a really good insight into the technology behind the pattern

Why use it on the hunt

If we assume that what is being said about the thoughts behind optifade is true. Then it makes really good sense to use the camouflage for practical hunting, as the animals simply have a harder time spotting the hunter. Of course, it’s hard to ask the ducks how they see the world and whether the patterns actually work, but all indications are that it works. The products have become extremely popular and big brands like Sitka Gear, and RigÉm Right, have had great success in using the patterns.

We carry a large selection of blinds, clothing and bags in the optifade Marsh camouflage, and we have used it on our hunts, with great succes. – Whether it has been in reeds for ducks, on cornfields for pigeons, or in the fields for geese. So we believe it works, and we just think the patterns look really cool.

Roebuck hunting in June – Tips & Tricks for a tough hunt

Why is buck hunting difficult in June?

Roebuck hunting in June can be extremely difficult – in fact, it can sometimes seem as if all the bucks have disappeared from the face of the earth.

There are, of course, several reasons why buck hunting is difficult in June.

One reason is that vegetation and crops are often so high in June that you simply cant see a deer when it is out in the fields and meadows. Even in the forest, you will often experience such a high undergrowth that a buck can be difficult to spot.
Another reason is that the buck’s movement changes during the season. Especially when the high temperatures really get a grip, the animals become “lazy” and can be incredibly difficult to find.

But fear not! There are in fact a number of advices, that can help you in getting more succesfull on your buck hunting

Look at the end of the rainbow

If I had to choose only one time, to go buck hunting in June, then it would always be right after a good rainshower. The bucks simply become more active as soon as the sun comes out again, after rain.

First of all, the animals want to go out and dry themselves in the open, where they can catch some sun and heat up again. Secondly, the scent markings from the bucks have been washed away, and therefore they have to go out and refresh the scrapes and rubbings, so that the other bucks knows where the boundary goes. Both scenarios means that the buck will have to move around the terrain, and you will often have the chance to “catch” him in an open area if you position yourself correctly.

So if you only have a certain number of hunting days, available in June, I would recommend that you check the weather forecast and choose the days when rain turns to sun

Try new tactics

Hunt were the buck hides

If you have hunted in the same place for a while without seeing a roebuck then it is a good idea to change location in the terrain. Often the buck will be lazy in June and it may not come out in the open very often. So it is a good idea to place yourself close to scrub and thickets, were you expect the buck to hide

This tactic, of course, requires you to be able to position yourself in a place where there is sufficient backstop to catch the bullet when a shooting situation occurs. This can be difficult if you are hunting on flat terrain. However, this problem can be easily solved with one of our light and foldable treestands. With these you can follow the bucks movements on the terrain, throughout the season.

Several of the treestands can actually be carried as a backpack, and can therefore be used from hunt to hunt. This way you can position yourself according to the wind direction, and were you think the buck is staying.

Try a “early season” Roebuck call

Most buck hunters probably know that you can call in the roebuck with a buck call, during the rutting period (late July – mid August). But did you know that there are actually some buck calls, which are designed to call in the bucks in the early season, before the rut?

These calls are designed to make the territorial buck believe that another buck has entered his domain. He will most often respond to this by storming towards his “opponent”, and thereby you can entice him to leave his safe zone and get him out into the open.

Check out the call below

Scents & Lures can do the trick

One last trick that can sometimes help on the lazy roebucks is lures / scents. Some of these are used to blur your own smell and others have a strong luring effect on the game, including roe deer.

Lures for hunting are a bit overlooked in Europe, but in the US it is used by many hunters. Especially bow hunters, who need to be close to the game. Americans often use a fragrance to mask the human scent to spray under their boots and a synthetic buck urine to lure the buck forward with.

We have even tested several of our lures, in front of a game camera, and the conclusion is that it works quite well. So have you chased the buck without success? Then it’s actually a pretty good trick that can tip the odds in your favor.

To round off this guide, it must be said that you can of course be successful on the buck hunt, with other tactics than the ones we describe here. These are “just” some of the experiences we have made ourselves and tactics we will use when buck hunting becomes difficult.

Teaching a puppy to retrieve

Retrieving is important

When acquiring a puppy that is to become a hunting dog, there are many things that needs to be trained. One of the most important is that the dog must be trained to retrieve the shot game.

Therefore, we have put together this guide, which takes you through some basic thoughts and retrieval exercises. The guide is intended for the early training of puppies, which often takes place in or around the home. This training is very important, as it helps to shape the dog’s behavior and actions in the future.

We wish you good reading and good luck with your new puppy.

The training starts as a game

in principle retrieval training can be started as soon as the puppy has settled into his new home. However, it is important to point out that training with such young dogs should always be fun. The puppy needs to think of it as playing. When the puppy loses interest in the game, stop the “training” until the puppy is motivated again.

Before starting the game with the puppy, it is important to remember that hunting dogs are bred based on their instincts. This means that hunting dogs have been bred based on their instinct to hunt the prey and bring it home to the cave. This instinct is what you need to stimulate in your training.

Rules and basic ideas

As mentioned, you can start training as soon as the puppy has settled into its new home. But before we get to more concrete exercises, it is important to learn and remember these basic rules.

Remember to praise the puppy

The first and very important rule is to praise the dog – a lot! It is super important to praise the puppy when it comes back with something for you. It is important that from day one, it is aware that the best thing in the whole world is to bring the “prey” to you. However, it is also important that you find out which remedies / toys you want to train the puppy with. The puppy should not think that it is doing a good job if it brings you shoes or the toilet roll, etc. However, do not get angry at the puppy if it brings you a shoe or similar. You actually have to praise it, and then make sure it can not get to the shoes a second time.

It is a good idea to choose one or two toys that you use for the training every time, so that the dog gets use to that. For that reason, many dogowners get 2 identical dummies or balls for training purposes

Make it worth it for the puppy

The second rule is, that it should be worth it for the puppy to train with you. Therefore, only start playing or training when you have time to complete at a proper pace. If you stop the game prematurely, the puppy will seek its natural instinct, and run with the prey on its own. This is not desirable in a training situation.

You dont need to spend hours training with the dog, but just be aware that you have time to complete the training session successfully.

Be careful not to overstimulate the puppy

The third rule is that the puppy must not be overstimulated during the training, as it then loses focus on the task. Therefor the training should take place on the dog’s premises. If you see that the dog is starting to lose focus, then it is time to stop the training. After some time you will have a good idea on ​​how long you can train with the dog without it being overstimulated.

A really good idea is to train “a little but often”. Train every day, but just make 3-4 successful retrievals a day. You should plan the training to take place when the puppy is well rested. If it has just been out exercising in the garden or similar, the energy and focus will be lacking right from the start.

Another really good thing is to train in a closed area so that the puppy does not end up being distracted by things around it. For example, you may have a utility room, hallway or other enclosed (preferably long and narrow) room with plenty of space to play with the dog. If you want to train outdoors, it is a good idea to set up a small bit of fence, and form a “long and narrow area” for the purpose.

Start out with “small” retrieval exercises

When you train with your puppy, there is no point in making the exercises too difficult. Start by sitting down on the floor and throw the selected toy or dummy, quite a short distance away from you (1-2 meters). Make sure that the puppy has contact with you at all times. Gently hold the puppy so that it does not run off, but release it as soon as the dummy lands on the ground.

As soon as the puppy takes the dummy in its mouth, call it back to you. Remember to praise a lot throughout the situation. Use a friendly and gentle tone of voice that the dog will find comfortable. Also remember to praise the puppy physically, by letting it come up to you and cuddling with it. After a short time, you can use a dog whistle when you call the puppy back. In this way you train both retrieval and “recall” at the same time.

Train “retrieve to hand”

It is important that the dog learns that everything must be retrieved directly to your hand. So never throw a new dummy until the first one has been deliverd to your hand. When this is trained into the puppy, the risk of later errors is minimized. This is best done by helping the puppy in the beginning.

When the puppy comes back with the dummy, make sure to help it by holding your hand under it. This is done to make sure the dummy lands in your hand, even if the puppy drops it to early. This way you create a successful experience which the puppy remembers quite quickly. Now you can throw the second dummy in the opposite direction. That way the puppy finds out that a new game begins, when it brings the first dummy to your hand.

Remember that you should rather train often and a little. So keep an eye on the puppy’s reactions during training.

If the puppy chooses to run around with the dummy, instead of bringing it to you, it is time to stop the game. This means that the puppy’s close to beeing overstimulated.

Choice of Dummy

For small puppies

For the first part of the training, where the puppy is still very small, be aware that the dummy is not too big and heavy. The puppy must be able to retrieve the dummy, without losing it during the return run. In addition, the dummy should preferably be soft so that the puppy does not learn that the game must be “squeezed”. It must therefore be able to hold the dummy with a minimal jaw pressure.

In the beginning, you can easily train the puppy with a rolled-up sock, or a sock with a sponge in it. In fact, these solutions are quite suitable, as they comply with the above requirements, for an easy-to-handle dummy. Of course, there are also dummies made for puppies on the market. So if you do not want to waste a pair of socks, you can easily find good alternatives.

For bigger puppies

Once the puppy gets bigger and the basic exercises are in place, you can find a larger dummy to train with. The dog needs to get used to retrieving game with a certain weight.

You should choose a dummy that suits your breed of dog and the training you want to do with it. For example, a floating dummy, with a loose hanging head, is a really good idea for retrievers, that needs to retrieve on water. With a dummy like that, the dog will get the feeling of having a dead bird in its mouth. The head on the dummy will dangle, and make it feel like a dead duck or pheasant. In addition, a floating dummy also provides the opportunity to train on water, when the dog is ready for it.

A Canvas dummy, on the other hand, offers the opportunity to train retrieval on land. The smart thing about canvas dummies is that you can add scent to the dummy , as the smell sticks to the fabric longer. You will find concentrated game scent here

There are many ways to do it

It is important for us to say that a hunting dog can be trained to retrieve, in an infinite number of ways. So of couse you should always train your dog so it makes sense to you. What we have described here are just some basic principles and exercises in retrieval that we know can work really well. Especially in the early training.

If you want to know more about the further retrieval training you can read this article

Tips and tricks for trail cameras

Why use a trail camera?

Many hunters choose to use a trail camera on their hunting grounds, and so do we.

Setting up a game camera provides some unique opportunities to follow your game, and its behavior and development. For example, you can keep an eye on the animals’ health, the amount of predators on the terrain, and the trophy development on bucks and stags. All knowledge that allows you to plan your hunt and your shooting more selectively than if you went into the woods “blind”.

In addition, it is also really nice to follow what is happening out in nature. Many hunters experience getting pictures of fun and rare situations from nature.

Of course, one should not expect that a game camera can make it out for good hunting knowledge and skills in nature. It is precisely in combination with these that a game camera is a really useful tool.

Tips for hanging up your trail camera

If you want the very best result from your game camera, then it’s very important where and how you hang it up. Therefore, we have created a guide to setting up a game camera, which takes you through some good considerations that will ensure you better image and video material of your game.

Prepare your camera at home

It’s a really good idea to set up your camera from home so it’s definitely ready to hang up when you get to the woods.

Start by making sure that there is a proper SD card in the camera, it should have a good storage space so it can hang for some time, without being filled up. We recommend from 16gb and up. Remember that an SD card is still a good idea, even if your camera sends the images via SMS, email or app, as the camera then automatically stores images on the SD card if there are times without connection.

Make sure there are new, good quality batteries in the camera. Then you are sure that you have power for a long period of time and you do not have to change batteries all the time. There are many solutions to extend your trail camera’s battery life, see for example our lithium batteries, solar cells and powerbanks, which keep your camera running for a very long time.

It is also a good idea to choose your desired camera settings from home. On most cameras, you can choose whether you want pictures or video, how many pictures to take at once, etc. Then choose the settings that suit your needs. Personally, I do not want to get 100s of pictures of the same animal at the same time. Therefore, my cameras are set to take pictures when the animal arrives at the camera and a few seconds ahead and then go into pause mode for 5 minutes.

Once you have selected your settings, we recommend that you test your camera at home. Hang it up in the living room or in the garden for a few hours, and walk past it at regular intervals. This way you ensure that everything runs as it should and you avoid driving back and forth to the hunting ground to make the camera work.

Find the right area for your trail camera

It can be hard to find the perfect place to hang a trail camera. So we recommend that you spend some time looking for signs from the game. Then you can pretty sure find an area where the animals come by.

See for example if you can find a good and well-used trail, beds where animals have slept, or footprints and droppings. Then pictures will probably come in pretty quickly. If your main focus is on bucks and stags, it can also provide some good pictures if you find fresh rubbings and scrapes, and place your camera there. In general, it’s just a good idea to find a place where there are signs of activity.

If you have a feed barrel, saltstone, or some other type of feeding area, it is of course also quite obvious to set up a trail camera there. Here you will get pictures of many of the terrains animals, as most species will seek out the easie available food. That way you can follow the development of the animals and their general health.

Placement and setup of a trail camera

Once you have found the right area to “monitor”, you need to find the perfect spot, for the trail camera itself.

First of all, place the camera on something stable. If the camera is placed on a small wind-sensitive tree, you will get too many pictures when the wind blows. Therefore, you need to choose a good solid tree, or knock down a fencepost and fasten the camera to it. Using a post, you are also more flexible to position the game camera perfectly.

Point your camera either north or south. So you avoid getting a lot of images that are overexposed (white / dazzled) by sunrise and sunset. In addition, you also avoid the camera triggering itself and taking pictures of a whole lot of nothing.

Set up the camera at the right height, angle and distance, and point it exactly where you expect the animals to pass. Also think a little about what you want to have pictures of. If its reddeer you want the best pictures of, you can hang the camera a little higher then if its just roedeer. Usually we recommend that you hang the camera at a height of between 1-2 meters, depending on the terrain and angle.

Be sure to clear out plants, branches, and other vegetation that may reach in and trigger the camera. If there is no free “field of view”, even the slightest movement of the wind will trigger the camera. If you can place the camera in an open area so that you do not have to cut branches and the like, it is of course absolutely perfect.

The distance is important in relation to the quality of the images. If the camera is too close when the animals pass, you will often get close-ups of the animals’ bodies (difficult to distinguish male and female from each other). If, on the other hand, it is too far away, you risk that the sensor does not capture the animals’ movement at all. A distance between 5 and 15 meters is suitable for most setups.

You can check the distance, by walking in front of the camera sometimes until you think the picture is perfect. A little extra time to double check the angle, height, distance and settings is really well spent. Especially if you have a long way to your hunting ground.

Let the game camera work

It’s really easy to be tempted to check the game camera often once it’s hung up. However, we would advise you to let it hang for a minimum of 14 days at a time before checking it out. Then there is more calm and less traffic in the area. This will make the animals calmer as well and they will get past the camera more often.

Fortunately, however, there are a large number of game cameras that can send photos and videos home to you. This can be done either by MMS, by email or by an app solution. We have several cameras from both bolyguard and spypoint which have these functions.

These cameras are widely used by hunters that want live pictures from the terrain. In addition, they are also widely used for surveillance tasks both professionally and privately.

Avoid theft

It does happen that game cameras are stolen from the hunting areas. So if you hunt in an area where there is a lot of people around, anti-theft protection may be necessary. Fortunately, there are several solutions to the problem.
You can secure your game cameras with a cable lock or a steel box for the purpose.

We hope you got the help you need, so you can get the most out of your trail camera

Are you going to use your trailcamera at a feeding plot ? Then we have this article which may also be interesting to you. How to make a feeding plot for wild boar

How to make a feeding plot for wildboar

A guide for wild boar feeding plots

Are you one of the many European hunters who hunt wild boar? Then this article is for you. We have put together a great guide that describes how to create a great feeding plot for wild boar.

The guide is based on our own experiences from hunting wild boar in different places, where over the years, we have received many good tips from other wild boar hunters, and made some discoveries ourselves.

Finding the right location for your feeding plot

When it comes to building a feeding plot, it pays off to make some considerations about its location before starting. For example, it is nice to know a little about how the pigs move in the area, how the winddirection is and much more

We have made you a small to-do list which takes you through some of the considerations you can do.

  • Are there pigs in the area? Spend a day or two looking for signs of wild boar in the area you want your feeding plot. It is easier to get pigs to the feeder if it is located in a place where they like to stay and feel safe. If you can find a place with footprints, droppings and turned up soil, you know there are pigs in the area.
  • Where to put the highseat? When you have an idea of where to set up the feeder, you should look around and notice if there is a place to put the Highseat. The Highseat must be positioned so that you can sit and observe the feeding area without being detected. The distance should not be too great and you need a free shot. We recommend that you place the highseat at about 30-70 meters from the feeding area, preferably so that you have dense trees as a background. It is also important to have good wind, both when you are sitting in the highseat and on the way there. Therefore, you should check where the wind most often comes from, and place the highseat accordingly.
  • Choose a calm place – Wild boars are shy animals and therefore they should feel as safe as possible, at the feeding place. So it is a good idea to place the feeding area some distance away from houses, roads and other places where people and livestock move a lot.
  • Is it easy to get there? We know from personal experience that the easier it is to feed, the better we are at getting it done. Therefore, place your feeding area in a place that is relatively easy to access, either on foot or by ATV. This way you make both the work of feeding and handling shot pigs easier.

Now that you have found a good location for your feeder. You can test it by smearing a tree stump with beech tar and hanging up a trailcamera. If within a few weeks there are wild boars by the tar, then you can calmly set up your feeding area. If, on the other hand, nothing happens, then you can consider whether to find another place. Remember, however, to be patient, as it may take some time before the pigs dare to show up.

Equipment for the feeding plot

There a no right or wrong to how a feeding plot should be set up. However, many of the places we have been hunting, are set-up quite similar to eachother. It is on this basis from the places we have hunted ourselves that we make this guide

Barrel and automatic feeder

A barrel with an automatic feeder is in our opinion a must have. This way you can control when to feed and how much feed to spread. Once there are pigs on the feeding plot, it is very important that the barrel does not run dry. If it does the pigs are quickly gone and you have to start the plot up again. Therefore, a feed barrel of a certain size is a really good idea. Note that you should not feed the pigs with large amounts of feed, but just a small mouthful. This causes them to visit the feeding plot regularly. The feeding barrel can be placed on 3 legs or hung in a tree, as long as it is not directly on the ground. A good idea would be a feeding system like this one.

Trail/game camera

Many wild boar hunters choose to set up a game camera at their feeding area. That way you can keep track of when there are pigs on the site and plan the hunt accordingly. A game camera also gives the opportunity to form an impression of which animals come to the feed, and thereby choose which pigs to shoot. We recommend a game camera that can send images on either text, email or an app. It is also important that it can be used for a long time without running low on battery. We recommend this Bolyguard or Spypoint

Activity barrel / Feeding cone

An activity barrel is a type of feed barrel that the wild boar has to roll around before feed comes out, a bit like dog toys. A barrel like this is good for keeping the wild boars in place a little longer, it is a good idea. The wild boars like to use activity barrels as toys and often spend a lot of time doing it. This provides a better opportunity to choose the right pig and get a chance to shoot before yhey leave the feeding plot.

Lures for wild boars

Baits can increase the potential of a feeding plot considerably. The “oldest” and most used bait for wild boar is beech tar. The pigs rub against the tar to keep the fur free of vermin, and the boars also rub their teeth on stumps that have been tarred well. Therefore, they naturally seek the scent of beech tar. So make sure to tar tree trunks and stumps around the feeding plot – the pigs will love it.

There are also other baits for wild boar. These are designed to have a quick and powerful effect and many of them can attract pigs the same evening as you put them out. Chek them out here

Light it up

If you dont have Night vision gear, a lamp on the feeding spot is a good idea. The pigs rarely appear, while it is bright enough to hunt with ordinary scopes. So an automatic lamp with a green light is a cheap and good solution. It turns on when the pigs pass the sensor and they quickly get used to it. In addition, wild boar are not so shy about the green light. Have a look at our moonshine lamp for this purpose.

Which feed to use for wild boar

Wild boars are omnivorous and you can feed them with pretty much everything you can get your hands on. The most commonly used is corn, which the wild boar is absolutely crazy about, but corn can be expensive and there are many cheaper things that work almost as well. Many hunters, also feed with grain or peas, which are cheaper. In fact a mixture of the different things can be super effective.

If you have access to beets, carrots, potatoes and the like, it is also a good thing to use at the feeding plot. However, keep in mind that deer should not eat to much of that stuff before they can get sick. If you have a lot of deer on the terrain, then be a little careful with it, as of course they will also use the feeding plot.

Do you want strong wild boars? Then you can use a supplement of various salts, minerals and sugar. We use Buck Expert feed products, which are developed for the European wild boar. Here you get both salts, minerals and sugar granules, ready to mix in the feed. Powdered sugar is good to mix in – the wild boars love it.

How to feed wild boar

With an automatic feeder, you can set the feeding time and control how much feed is needed. On our own setups, we set the feeder to run 8-10 seconds about an hour after sunset and then possibly 8-10 seconds later at night / morning. Depending on how long the nights are. The idea is that the wild boars become active right after sunset and will seek out the feeding area as one of the first stops on their route. Here they will find a small snack, eat it and search further. This gives you enough time to shoot a pig, and does not use much feed.

Be careful not to use too much feed at one time. Because if the pigs eat till they are full , they are likely to stay away the next day.

To finish of we want to wish you luck on your hunting adventures, from team Lucky-Hunter

Dan Thompson – Predator Calls

The Dan Thompson Calls

In Scandinavia, Dan Thompson’s PC fox call has for many years been the hunters’ favorite tool for hunting foxes. Professional hunters such as Swedish Ulf Lindroth and Danish Sandor Hestbæk Markus (Wildlife Consultant at the Danish Nature Agency) have for more than 30 years used Dan Thompson  predator calls for hunting foxes and other predators – both at home and abroad. Ulf Lindroth has even produced a film years ago with the title “Lockjakt på räv”, where the effect of Dan Thompson’s PC call is shown in practice.

Dan Thompson’s predator calls are incredibly easy to use, and for this very reason they have for many years been used on the Danish Hunting’ Association’s courses in the use of predator calls for fox hunting. The teacher on these courses was Sandor Hestbæk Markus, who shared his many years of experience with the students.

In the United States, Dan Thompson is known as a legendary predator hunter and his name is for many hunters therefore also synonymous with high quality can say that hunting was in his blood, for at a very early age he was introduced to wolf hunting by his father, who was also a skilled hunter. It is clear to everyone that hunting was his great passion and for a period of his life he even lived in the desert, where he spent his time perfecting his skills, especially in predator hunting. It was these experiences that later led to the development of the iconic Dan Thompson calls that we all know today.

The torch is passed on

As a result of  Dan Thompson’s sudden death from a heart attack in 2011, the family faced a big problem. Who would continue the craft and brand that Dan Thompson had built up over a number of years? There was no one in the family who had a desire or the abilities to be able to take over. The family therefore asked John Haslem, who at this time had been in the company for several years, if he could be interested in taking over the production and driving the brand forward for the benefit of future generations of hunters. He thankfully said yes and was given all the machines and prototypes.

Then John threw himself into an adventure that has been his life ever since. With a solid base in the small workshop in the town of St. George north of Las Vegas John Haslem and his wife Jennette produce around. 8,000 PC-calls a year on the same machines that Dan Thompson left behind and which for many years has produced predator calls of the very highest quality. All the calls are made of the finest American hardwood, which ensures the clear and natural sound that makes Dan Thompson calls so popular.

Meeting the team behind Dan Thompson

In 2018, we participated in the Shot Show fair in Las Vegas and in that connection we had agreed to meet with John Haslem to place a new order for our customers in Europe. In many ways, this was a memorable meeting as it led to John and Jennette choosing us as a distributor of Dan Thompson Calls to the entire European market. We are incredibly proud of this agreement and we are pleased with the trust that John and Jennette have shown us.

Back left to right: John Haslem, Henrik Thomassen, Søren Andersen. Front left to right: Jenette Haslem and Tina Andersen

In January 2020, we had the pleasure of visiting John and Jenette in St. George, where we experienced how unique the production is. John showed the production from start to finish, from round bar to predator call. We were also allowed to start the CNC machine ourselves and make our very own Dan Thompson decoy call.

From round bar to predator call

  • The wood is cut into big rods
  • The rods are then made into  round bars.
  • The bars are cut into smaller pieces.
  • The pieces are then rotated and milled on an old CNC milling machine, following a carefully coded program depending on the call.
  • The calls are drilled out.
  • The calls are sanded smooth, which highlights the patterns in the wood.
  • The Reeds are pressed manually with a steel t-piece.
  • Each call is quality checked in relation to its looks and shape.
  • The calls are now sent to a partner who makes sure that they receive a coating in camouflage finish or a high-gloss varnish.
  • When the calls return, every single one is hand-tuned and adjusted by John Haslem to ensure the perfect sound and lure effect
  • Jennette finally puts on stickers, packaging and packs the calls for shipping to hunters around the world.

A memory from the meeting

John and Jennette had a box with PC-calls, which had been sorted out due to too large knots or even bullet remains in the wood. We had the opportunity to choose some of these calls to take home as a reminder of a great day. Extraordinarily, we were also invited home in private, where we saw John’s home office with Dan Thompson calls ready for shipping, prototypes, merchandise and the loose reeds that form a big part of the secret behind the unique sound.

We were proud and very humbled to visit John and Jennette, and to be able to offer the Dan Thompson calls around europe. It commits us to work hard every day, to live up to their trust and the story behind the name Dan Thompson Calls.