Author Archives: Rasmus Nielsen

Optifade Camouflage – Blog post

What is Optifade?

Optifade is a very special camouflage pattern, developed by W.L Gore, which is probably best known for the “Gore-TEX” membrane, which is used in a lot of hunting equipment.

What makes the optifade camouflage so special is that it is based on the game’s eyesight and perception of the world. Unlike the other brands and patterns which are made from the human point of view.

When taking a look at “Realtree” and “Mossy Oak”, which are two of the big players when it comes to camouflage patterns (which is a whole industry in itself). We can see that their patterns are made to reflect something as we humans perceive it. For example, a tree, leaves, shrubs or reeds, which the pattern is made to look like. Of course, this makes good sense, as a hunter, from our point of view, will be hidden when he uses the pattern in the right environment – but are we sure that the animals see the world just like us?

That was the question the people at W.L Gore asked themselves when they had to make their own camouflage. The result was the optifad, which is a “camouflage concept” developed based on the views of the individual game species. The development took place with the help of researchers and other experts in the field, to ensure optimal efficiency.

“The science of nothing”

Due to the above, the optifade does not look like the traditional camouflage patterns, and with human eyes, it actually doesn´t look very “realistic”. The patterns are more pixelated to look at, and do not really look like anything, and that is actually the whole idea of it. The people at W.L Gore have made the patterns so that the hunter, looks like nothing, rather than the other brands, which try to make the hunter look like something. Hence their slogan “The science of nothing”

Optifade is available in a number of different patterns, each of which has been developed for special forms of hunting. There is, for example, one for mountain hunting, hunting in open terrain and one for duck and goose hunting.

In this post, we will focus on “Optifade Marsh”, which has been developed specifically for duck and goose hunting.

Optifade Patterns

What is so special about the Optifade Marsh?

Optifade Waterfowl Marsh is a specially developed camouflage pattern that takes into account how ducks and geese see the world beneath them.

The pattern makes you unrecognizable in the eyes of your prey, as it is based on the visual abilities of ducks and geese. Instead of a pattern that makes you look like your surroundings, like most other camo patterns, the OPTIFADE makes the hunter appear like “nothing”.

GORE ™ teamed up with the best biologists in animal vision and leading experts in military camouflage to develop a pattern that not only hides the hunter, but actually makes him / her disappear, in the eyes of the animals, and it seems that they are succeeded in the task. “Optifade Marsh” can now be found at some of the most prominent manufacturers of equipment for duck and goose hunting.

How it works

Birds are particularly sensitive to color and continuity with their surroundings. Therefore, the Marsh pattern is made to confuse the birds’ vision. In particular, the colors have been manipulated to create a great depth.

Duck and goose hunting often takes place in an environment with great contrasts in light and colors. For example, skylights from the horizon or sunlight reflected from the water surface will create concentrated light spots. To fall into that environment, “Optifade Marsh” uses both elements that are light in color and elements that are darker in color. It gives as natural an expression as possible.

While most other patterns are designed, assuming the game is on the ground and looking at the hunter. Then “Optifade Marsh” takes into account that the birds are usually in motion, and also are above the hunter, during the approach. Therefore, the pattern in “Optifade Marsh” is more vertical than camouflage patterns designed for, for example, hunting deer.

The video here gives a really good insight into the technology behind the pattern

Why use it on the hunt

If we assume that what is being said about the thoughts behind optifade is true. Then it makes really good sense to use the camouflage for practical hunting, as the animals simply have a harder time spotting the hunter. Of course, it’s hard to ask the ducks how they see the world and whether the patterns actually work, but all indications are that it works. The products have become extremely popular and big brands like Sitka Gear, and RigÉm Right, have had great success in using the patterns.

We carry a large selection of blinds, clothing and bags in the optifade Marsh camouflage, and we have used it on our hunts, with great succes. – Whether it has been in reeds for ducks, on cornfields for pigeons, or in the fields for geese. So we believe it works, and we just think the patterns look really cool.

  • Image of Rig'Em Right Low Rider 3 - Optifade Marsh layout blind for wildfowling
    Rig’Em Right Low Rider 3 – Optifade Marsh
  • Rig'Em Right Full Choke Floating Gun Case - Optifade Marsh
    Rig’Em Right Full Choke Floating Gun Case – Optifade Marsh
  • Rig'Em Right Stump Jumper Backpack - Optifade Timber
    Rig’Em Right Stump Jumper Backpack – Optifade Timber
  • Rig´Em Right Panel Blind - Optifade Marsh
    Rig´Em Right Panel Blind – Optifade Marsh

Roebuck hunting in June – Tips & Tricks for a tough hunt

Why is buck hunting difficult in June?

Roebuck hunting in June can be extremely difficult – in fact, it can sometimes seem as if all the bucks have disappeared from the face of the earth.

There are, of course, several reasons why buck hunting is difficult in June.

One reason is that vegetation and crops are often so high in June that you simply cant see a deer when it is out in the fields and meadows. Even in the forest, you will often experience such a high undergrowth that a buck can be difficult to spot.
Another reason is that the buck’s movement changes during the season. Especially when the high temperatures really get a grip, the animals become “lazy” and can be incredibly difficult to find.

But fear not! There are in fact a number of advices, that can help you in getting more succesfull on your buck hunting

Look at the end of the rainbow

If I had to choose only one time, to go buck hunting in June, then it would always be right after a good rainshower. The bucks simply become more active as soon as the sun comes out again, after rain.

First of all, the animals want to go out and dry themselves in the open, where they can catch some sun and heat up again. Secondly, the scent markings from the bucks have been washed away, and therefore they have to go out and refresh the scrapes and rubbings, so that the other bucks knows where the boundary goes. Both scenarios means that the buck will have to move around the terrain, and you will often have the chance to “catch” him in an open area if you position yourself correctly.

So if you only have a certain number of hunting days, available in June, I would recommend that you check the weather forecast and choose the days when rain turns to sun

Try new tactics

Hunt were the buck hides

If you have hunted in the same place for a while without seeing a roebuck then it is a good idea to change location in the terrain. Often the buck will be lazy in June and it may not come out in the open very often. So it is a good idea to place yourself close to scrub and thickets, were you expect the buck to hide

This tactic, of course, requires you to be able to position yourself in a place where there is sufficient backstop to catch the bullet when a shooting situation occurs. This can be difficult if you are hunting on flat terrain. However, this problem can be easily solved with one of our light and foldable treestands. With these you can follow the bucks movements on the terrain, throughout the season.

Several of the treestands can actually be carried as a backpack, and can therefore be used from hunt to hunt. This way you can position yourself according to the wind direction, and were you think the buck is staying.

  • Foldable Treestand HS-40
    Foldable Treestand HS-40
  • Image of the telescopic treestand HS-50
    Telescopic Treestand HS-50
  • Treestand HS-25
    Treestand HS-25

Try a “early season” Roebuck call

Most buck hunters probably know that you can call in the roebuck with a buck call, during the rutting period (late July – mid August). But did you know that there are actually some buck calls, which are designed to call in the bucks in the early season, before the rut?

These calls are designed to make the territorial buck believe that another buck has entered his domain. He will most often respond to this by storming towards his “opponent”, and thereby you can entice him to leave his safe zone and get him out into the open.

Check out the call below

  • Image of the Weisskirchen Roe Deer Call as well as the carry case and DVD included.
    Weisskirchen Roe Deer Call

Scents & Lures can do the trick

One last trick that can sometimes help on the lazy roebucks is lures / scents. Some of these are used to blur your own smell and others have a strong luring effect on the game, including roe deer.

Lures for hunting are a bit overlooked in Europe, but in the US it is used by many hunters. Especially bow hunters, who need to be close to the game. Americans often use a fragrance to mask the human scent to spray under their boots and a synthetic buck urine to lure the buck forward with.

We have even tested several of our lures, in front of a game camera, and the conclusion is that it works quite well. So have you chased the buck without success? Then it’s actually a pretty good trick that can tip the odds in your favor.

  • Urine Scents
    Urine Scents
  • Buck Expert Apple Hunting Lure
    Buck Expert Apple Hunting Lure
  • Buck Expert Scent Eliminator
    Buck Expert Scent Eliminator

To round off this guide, it must be said that you can of course be successful on the buck hunt, with other tactics than the ones we describe here. These are “just” some of the experiences we have made ourselves and tactics we will use when buck hunting becomes difficult.

Teaching a puppy to retrieve

Retrieving is important

When acquiring a puppy that is to become a hunting dog, there are many things that needs to be trained. One of the most important is that the dog must be trained to retrieve the shot game.

Therefore, we have put together this guide, which takes you through some basic thoughts and retrieval exercises. The guide is intended for the early training of puppies, which often takes place in or around the home. This training is very important, as it helps to shape the dog’s behavior and actions in the future.

We wish you good reading and good luck with your new puppy.

The training starts as a game

in principle retrieval training can be started as soon as the puppy has settled into his new home. However, it is important to point out that training with such young dogs should always be fun. The puppy needs to think of it as playing. When the puppy loses interest in the game, stop the “training” until the puppy is motivated again.

Before starting the game with the puppy, it is important to remember that hunting dogs are bred based on their instincts. This means that hunting dogs have been bred based on their instinct to hunt the prey and bring it home to the cave. This instinct is what you need to stimulate in your training.

Rules and basic ideas

As mentioned, you can start training as soon as the puppy has settled into its new home. But before we get to more concrete exercises, it is important to learn and remember these basic rules.

Remember to praise the puppy

The first and very important rule is to praise the dog – a lot! It is super important to praise the puppy when it comes back with something for you. It is important that from day one, it is aware that the best thing in the whole world is to bring the “prey” to you. However, it is also important that you find out which remedies / toys you want to train the puppy with. The puppy should not think that it is doing a good job if it brings you shoes or the toilet roll, etc. However, do not get angry at the puppy if it brings you a shoe or similar. You actually have to praise it, and then make sure it can not get to the shoes a second time.

It is a good idea to choose one or two toys that you use for the training every time, so that the dog gets use to that. For that reason, many dogowners get 2 identical dummies or balls for training purposes

Make it worth it for the puppy

The second rule is, that it should be worth it for the puppy to train with you. Therefore, only start playing or training when you have time to complete at a proper pace. If you stop the game prematurely, the puppy will seek its natural instinct, and run with the prey on its own. This is not desirable in a training situation.

You dont need to spend hours training with the dog, but just be aware that you have time to complete the training session successfully.

  • Avery Collar Cut-To-Fit - Blades
    Avery Collar Cut-To-Fit – Blades
    Product on sale
  • Avery Dog Collar - Reversible
    Avery Dog Collar – Reversible
  • Avery Floating Dog Leash
    Avery Floating Dog Leash
  • Avery Trainers Lead - Camouflage
    Avery Trainers Lead – Camouflage
    Product on sale

Be careful not to overstimulate the puppy

The third rule is that the puppy must not be overstimulated during the training, as it then loses focus on the task. Therefor the training should take place on the dog’s premises. If you see that the dog is starting to lose focus, then it is time to stop the training. After some time you will have a good idea on ​​how long you can train with the dog without it being overstimulated.

A really good idea is to train “a little but often”. Train every day, but just make 3-4 successful retrievals a day. You should plan the training to take place when the puppy is well rested. If it has just been out exercising in the garden or similar, the energy and focus will be lacking right from the start.

Another really good thing is to train in a closed area so that the puppy does not end up being distracted by things around it. For example, you may have a utility room, hallway or other enclosed (preferably long and narrow) room with plenty of space to play with the dog. If you want to train outdoors, it is a good idea to set up a small bit of fence, and form a “long and narrow area” for the purpose.

Start out with “small” retrieval exercises

When you train with your puppy, there is no point in making the exercises too difficult. Start by sitting down on the floor and throw the selected toy or dummy, quite a short distance away from you (1-2 meters). Make sure that the puppy has contact with you at all times. Gently hold the puppy so that it does not run off, but release it as soon as the dummy lands on the ground.

As soon as the puppy takes the dummy in its mouth, call it back to you. Remember to praise a lot throughout the situation. Use a friendly and gentle tone of voice that the dog will find comfortable. Also remember to praise the puppy physically, by letting it come up to you and cuddling with it. After a short time, you can use a dog whistle when you call the puppy back. In this way you train both retrieval and “recall” at the same time.

  • Dog Whistle - Stag horn 7 cm
    Dog Whistle – Stag horn 7 cm
  • Dog Whistle - Buffalo 7 cm
    Dog Whistle – Buffalo 7 cm
  • Dog whistle - Buffalo 8,5 cm
    Dog whistle – Buffalo 8,5 cm
    Product on sale

Train “retrieve to hand”

It is important that the dog learns that everything must be retrieved directly to your hand. So never throw a new dummy until the first one has been deliverd to your hand. When this is trained into the puppy, the risk of later errors is minimized. This is best done by helping the puppy in the beginning.

When the puppy comes back with the dummy, make sure to help it by holding your hand under it. This is done to make sure the dummy lands in your hand, even if the puppy drops it to early. This way you create a successful experience which the puppy remembers quite quickly. Now you can throw the second dummy in the opposite direction. That way the puppy finds out that a new game begins, when it brings the first dummy to your hand.

Remember that you should rather train often and a little. So keep an eye on the puppy’s reactions during training.

If the puppy chooses to run around with the dummy, instead of bringing it to you, it is time to stop the game. This means that the puppy’s close to beeing overstimulated.

Choice of Dummy

For small puppies

For the first part of the training, where the puppy is still very small, be aware that the dummy is not too big and heavy. The puppy must be able to retrieve the dummy, without losing it during the return run. In addition, the dummy should preferably be soft so that the puppy does not learn that the game must be “squeezed”. It must therefore be able to hold the dummy with a minimal jaw pressure.

In the beginning, you can easily train the puppy with a rolled-up sock, or a sock with a sponge in it. In fact, these solutions are quite suitable, as they comply with the above requirements, for an easy-to-handle dummy. Of course, there are also dummies made for puppies on the market. So if you do not want to waste a pair of socks, you can easily find good alternatives.

For bigger puppies

Once the puppy gets bigger and the basic exercises are in place, you can find a larger dummy to train with. The dog needs to get used to retrieving game with a certain weight.

You should choose a dummy that suits your breed of dog and the training you want to do with it. For example, a floating dummy, with a loose hanging head, is a really good idea for retrievers, that needs to retrieve on water. With a dummy like that, the dog will get the feeling of having a dead bird in its mouth. The head on the dummy will dangle, and make it feel like a dead duck or pheasant. In addition, a floating dummy also provides the opportunity to train on water, when the dog is ready for it.

A Canvas dummy, on the other hand, offers the opportunity to train retrieval on land. The smart thing about canvas dummies is that you can add scent to the dummy , as the smell sticks to the fabric longer. You will find concentrated game scent here

  • Image of the Pheasant EZ Bird
    Pheasant EZ Bird – Avery Sporting Dog
  • Image of the ASD Pintail EZ Bird Training Dummy
    Avery Sporting Dog – Pintail EZ Bird
  • Image of Avery Sporting Dog Hexabumper
    Avery Sporting Dog Hexabumper

There are many ways to do it

It is important for us to say that a hunting dog can be trained to retrieve, in an infinite number of ways. So of couse you should always train your dog so it makes sense to you. What we have described here are just some basic principles and exercises in retrieval that we know can work really well. Especially in the early training.

If you want to know more about the further retrieval training you can read this article

Tips and tricks for trail cameras

Why use a trail camera?

Many hunters choose to use a trail camera on their hunting grounds, and so do we.

Setting up a game camera provides some unique opportunities to follow your game, and its behavior and development. For example, you can keep an eye on the animals’ health, the amount of predators on the terrain, and the trophy development on bucks and stags. All knowledge that allows you to plan your hunt and your shooting more selectively than if you went into the woods “blind”.

In addition, it is also really nice to follow what is happening out in nature. Many hunters experience getting pictures of fun and rare situations from nature.

Of course, one should not expect that a game camera can make it out for good hunting knowledge and skills in nature. It is precisely in combination with these that a game camera is a really useful tool.

Tips for hanging up your trail camera

If you want the very best result from your game camera, then it’s very important where and how you hang it up. Therefore, we have created a guide to setting up a game camera, which takes you through some good considerations that will ensure you better image and video material of your game.

Prepare your camera at home

It’s a really good idea to set up your camera from home so it’s definitely ready to hang up when you get to the woods.

Start by making sure that there is a proper SD card in the camera, it should have a good storage space so it can hang for some time, without being filled up. We recommend from 16gb and up. Remember that an SD card is still a good idea, even if your camera sends the images via SMS, email or app, as the camera then automatically stores images on the SD card if there are times without connection.

Make sure there are new, good quality batteries in the camera. Then you are sure that you have power for a long period of time and you do not have to change batteries all the time. There are many solutions to extend your trail camera’s battery life, see for example our lithium batteries, solar cells and powerbanks, which keep your camera running for a very long time.

It is also a good idea to choose your desired camera settings from home. On most cameras, you can choose whether you want pictures or video, how many pictures to take at once, etc. Then choose the settings that suit your needs. Personally, I do not want to get 100s of pictures of the same animal at the same time. Therefore, my cameras are set to take pictures when the animal arrives at the camera and a few seconds ahead and then go into pause mode for 5 minutes.

Once you have selected your settings, we recommend that you test your camera at home. Hang it up in the living room or in the garden for a few hours, and walk past it at regular intervals. This way you ensure that everything runs as it should and you avoid driving back and forth to the hunting ground to make the camera work.

  • Charger and 2 Rechargeable Batteries - Bolyguard
    Charger and 2 Rechargeable Batteries – Bolyguard
  • Image showing 16GB and 32GB Sandisk Memory Cards
    Memory Card
  • Spypoint Lithium Battery LIT-09
    Spypoint Lithium Battery LIT-09
  • Bolyguard Power Bank
    Bolyguard Power Bank

Find the right area for your trail camera

It can be hard to find the perfect place to hang a trail camera. So we recommend that you spend some time looking for signs from the game. Then you can pretty sure find an area where the animals come by.

See for example if you can find a good and well-used trail, beds where animals have slept, or footprints and droppings. Then pictures will probably come in pretty quickly. If your main focus is on bucks and stags, it can also provide some good pictures if you find fresh rubbings and scrapes, and place your camera there. In general, it’s just a good idea to find a place where there are signs of activity.

If you have a feed barrel, saltstone, or some other type of feeding area, it is of course also quite obvious to set up a trail camera there. Here you will get pictures of many of the terrains animals, as most species will seek out the easie available food. That way you can follow the development of the animals and their general health.

Placement and setup of a trail camera

Once you have found the right area to “monitor”, you need to find the perfect spot, for the trail camera itself.

First of all, place the camera on something stable. If the camera is placed on a small wind-sensitive tree, you will get too many pictures when the wind blows. Therefore, you need to choose a good solid tree, or knock down a fencepost and fasten the camera to it. Using a post, you are also more flexible to position the game camera perfectly.

Point your camera either north or south. So you avoid getting a lot of images that are overexposed (white / dazzled) by sunrise and sunset. In addition, you also avoid the camera triggering itself and taking pictures of a whole lot of nothing.

Set up the camera at the right height, angle and distance, and point it exactly where you expect the animals to pass. Also think a little about what you want to have pictures of. If its reddeer you want the best pictures of, you can hang the camera a little higher then if its just roedeer. Usually we recommend that you hang the camera at a height of between 1-2 meters, depending on the terrain and angle.

Be sure to clear out plants, branches, and other vegetation that may reach in and trigger the camera. If there is no free “field of view”, even the slightest movement of the wind will trigger the camera. If you can place the camera in an open area so that you do not have to cut branches and the like, it is of course absolutely perfect.

The distance is important in relation to the quality of the images. If the camera is too close when the animals pass, you will often get close-ups of the animals’ bodies (difficult to distinguish male and female from each other). If, on the other hand, it is too far away, you risk that the sensor does not capture the animals’ movement at all. A distance between 5 and 15 meters is suitable for most setups.

You can check the distance, by walking in front of the camera sometimes until you think the picture is perfect. A little extra time to double check the angle, height, distance and settings is really well spent. Especially if you have a long way to your hunting ground.

Let the game camera work

It’s really easy to be tempted to check the game camera often once it’s hung up. However, we would advise you to let it hang for a minimum of 14 days at a time before checking it out. Then there is more calm and less traffic in the area. This will make the animals calmer as well and they will get past the camera more often.

Fortunately, however, there are a large number of game cameras that can send photos and videos home to you. This can be done either by MMS, by email or by an app solution. We have several cameras from both bolyguard and spypoint which have these functions.

These cameras are widely used by hunters that want live pictures from the terrain. In addition, they are also widely used for surveillance tasks both professionally and privately.

  • Spypoint LINK-MICRO LTE
    Spypoint LINK-MICRO LTE
    Product on sale
  • Spypoint LINK-MICRO-S-LTE
    Spypoint LINK-MICRO-S-LTE
    Product on sale
  • Bolyguard MG984G-36M - 4G LTE
    Bolyguard MG984G-36M – 4G LTE
  • Bolyguard BG310-MFP | 4G MMS Game Camera
    Bolyguard BG310-MFP | 4G MMS Game Camera

Avoid theft

It does happen that game cameras are stolen from the hunting areas. So if you hunt in an area where there is a lot of people around, anti-theft protection may be necessary. Fortunately, there are several solutions to the problem.
You can secure your game cameras with a cable lock or a steel box for the purpose.

We hope you got the help you need, so you can get the most out of your trail camera

Are you going to use your trailcamera at a feeding plot ? Then we have this article which may also be interesting to you. How to make a feeding plot for wild boar

How to make a feeding plot for wildboar

A guide for wild boar feeding plots

Are you one of the many European hunters who hunt wild boar? Then this article is for you. We have put together a great guide that describes how to create a great feeding plot for wild boar.

The guide is based on our own experiences from hunting wild boar in different places, where over the years, we have received many good tips from other wild boar hunters, and made some discoveries ourselves.

Finding the right location for your feeding plot

When it comes to building a feeding plot, it pays off to make some considerations about its location before starting. For example, it is nice to know a little about how the pigs move in the area, how the winddirection is and much more

We have made you a small to-do list which takes you through some of the considerations you can do.

  • Are there pigs in the area? Spend a day or two looking for signs of wild boar in the area you want your feeding plot. It is easier to get pigs to the feeder if it is located in a place where they like to stay and feel safe. If you can find a place with footprints, droppings and turned up soil, you know there are pigs in the area.
  • Where to put the highseat? When you have an idea of where to set up the feeder, you should look around and notice if there is a place to put the Highseat. The Highseat must be positioned so that you can sit and observe the feeding area without being detected. The distance should not be too great and you need a free shot. We recommend that you place the highseat at about 30-70 meters from the feeding area, preferably so that you have dense trees as a background. It is also important to have good wind, both when you are sitting in the highseat and on the way there. Therefore, you should check where the wind most often comes from, and place the highseat accordingly.
  • Choose a calm place – Wild boars are shy animals and therefore they should feel as safe as possible, at the feeding place. So it is a good idea to place the feeding area some distance away from houses, roads and other places where people and livestock move a lot.
  • Is it easy to get there? We know from personal experience that the easier it is to feed, the better we are at getting it done. Therefore, place your feeding area in a place that is relatively easy to access, either on foot or by ATV. This way you make both the work of feeding and handling shot pigs easier.

Now that you have found a good location for your feeder. You can test it by smearing a tree stump with beech tar and hanging up a trailcamera. If within a few weeks there are wild boars by the tar, then you can calmly set up your feeding area. If, on the other hand, nothing happens, then you can consider whether to find another place. Remember, however, to be patient, as it may take some time before the pigs dare to show up.

  • Spypoint LINK-MICRO-S-LTE
    Spypoint LINK-MICRO-S-LTE
    Product on sale
  • Bolyguard MG984G-36M - 4G LTE
    Bolyguard MG984G-36M – 4G LTE
  • Beech Tar 5L
    Beech Tar 5L
  • Beech Tar 500 ml with brush
    Beech Tar 500 ml with brush

Equipment for the feeding plot

There a no right or wrong to how a feeding plot should be set up. However, many of the places we have been hunting, are set-up quite similar to eachother. It is on this basis from the places we have hunted ourselves that we make this guide

Barrel and automatic feeder

A barrel with an automatic feeder is in our opinion a must have. This way you can control when to feed and how much feed to spread. Once there are pigs on the feeding plot, it is very important that the barrel does not run dry. If it does the pigs are quickly gone and you have to start the plot up again. Therefore, a feed barrel of a certain size is a really good idea. Note that you should not feed the pigs with large amounts of feed, but just a small mouthful. This causes them to visit the feeding plot regularly. The feeding barrel can be placed on 3 legs or hung in a tree, as long as it is not directly on the ground. A good idea would be a feeding system like this one.

Trail/game camera

Many wild boar hunters choose to set up a game camera at their feeding area. That way you can keep track of when there are pigs on the site and plan the hunt accordingly. A game camera also gives the opportunity to form an impression of which animals come to the feed, and thereby choose which pigs to shoot. We recommend a game camera that can send images on either text, email or an app. It is also important that it can be used for a long time without running low on battery. We recommend this Bolyguard or Spypoint

Activity barrel / Feeding cone

An activity barrel is a type of feed barrel that the wild boar has to roll around before feed comes out, a bit like dog toys. A barrel like this is good for keeping the wild boars in place a little longer, it is a good idea. The wild boars like to use activity barrels as toys and often spend a lot of time doing it. This provides a better opportunity to choose the right pig and get a chance to shoot before yhey leave the feeding plot.

Lures for wild boars

Baits can increase the potential of a feeding plot considerably. The “oldest” and most used bait for wild boar is beech tar. The pigs rub against the tar to keep the fur free of vermin, and the boars also rub their teeth on stumps that have been tarred well. Therefore, they naturally seek the scent of beech tar. So make sure to tar tree trunks and stumps around the feeding plot – the pigs will love it.

There are also other baits for wild boar. These are designed to have a quick and powerful effect and many of them can attract pigs the same evening as you put them out. Chek them out here

Light it up

If you dont have Night vision gear, a lamp on the feeding spot is a good idea. The pigs rarely appear, while it is bright enough to hunt with ordinary scopes. So an automatic lamp with a green light is a cheap and good solution. It turns on when the pigs pass the sensor and they quickly get used to it. In addition, wild boar are not so shy about the green light. Have a look at our moonshine lamp for this purpose.

Which feed to use for wild boar

Wild boars are omnivorous and you can feed them with pretty much everything you can get your hands on. The most commonly used is corn, which the wild boar is absolutely crazy about, but corn can be expensive and there are many cheaper things that work almost as well. Many hunters, also feed with grain or peas, which are cheaper. In fact a mixture of the different things can be super effective.

If you have access to beets, carrots, potatoes and the like, it is also a good thing to use at the feeding plot. However, keep in mind that deer should not eat to much of that stuff before they can get sick. If you have a lot of deer on the terrain, then be a little careful with it, as of course they will also use the feeding plot.

Do you want strong wild boars? Then you can use a supplement of various salts, minerals and sugar. We use Buck Expert feed products, which are developed for the European wild boar. Here you get both salts, minerals and sugar granules, ready to mix in the feed. Powdered sugar is good to mix in – the wild boars love it.

How to feed wild boar

With an automatic feeder, you can set the feeding time and control how much feed is needed. On our own setups, we set the feeder to run 8-10 seconds about an hour after sunset and then possibly 8-10 seconds later at night / morning. Depending on how long the nights are. The idea is that the wild boars become active right after sunset and will seek out the feeding area as one of the first stops on their route. Here they will find a small snack, eat it and search further. This gives you enough time to shoot a pig, and does not use much feed.

Be careful not to use too much feed at one time. Because if the pigs eat till they are full , they are likely to stay away the next day.

To finish of we want to wish you luck on your hunting adventures, from team Lucky-Hunter

  • Game Feeder
    Game Feeder
  • Tripod Feeding system
    Tripod Feeding system
  • Moonshine Feeder Light
    Moonshine Feeder Light
  • Wldboard Feeding Cone 18 kgs
    Wldboard Feeding Cone 18 kgs

Night Vision Guide

Night Vision for hunting

In recent years, more and more hunters have started using night vision gear for hunting. This happens for several reasons. One of these is definitely that several of the night vision products on the market are now down in price so much that most hunters can afford it. This is due to a massive technological development on the subject

Going hunting at night is exciting and challenging and although the use of night vision, of course has made it a little easier, it is certainly not boring. Your senses work at high alert and even the slightest sound in the dark can make the heart skip a beat. It gets even more exciting once a wildboar or other game shows up, then it can really be difficult to control the “buck fever”.

Why use night vision

The use of night optics for hunting has previously resulted in divided opinions. Some hunters have been on board and others have been against, and of course it is natural that not everyone agrees on everything.

We think that if night vision gear is used with some caution, then it is a great tool for hunting wildboar and other species, were the numbers needs to be decimated. Night Vision and thermal gear is also great for keeping track of you huntingterrain and counting deers etc.

In wild boar hunting, for example, the hunter finds it much easier to select the right animal for shooting, compared to back in the days where must of the hunting took place with ordinary optics and only moonlight as an aid. In addition, it is also much easier to make a perfect shot when using night vision, compared to the hunting in the moonlight were wild boars are simply presented as black silhouettes in the dark.

In the fight against the invasive raccoon dog in Denmark, the legalization of night optics has also made a huge difference and there has been a big increase in numbers beeing shot since then. So there is no doubt that it is an important and effective tool for hunting unwanted and invasive species

However, it is important to point out that night vision and thermal gear do not turn night into day. Therefore, one must of course be very careful about taking a shot before one has had a proper chance to assess both the game and the situation. Of course you also have to do this during the day, but here you have daylight at your disposal and can better see all the details of the game, backstop for the bullet, and obstacles, etc.

Which night optics should I choose?

As the demand for night-vision has increased, the supply has naturally followed in the same direction. This means that there are now many brands and models to choose from on the market, and it can feel like a bit of a jungle – so what to choose?

IR or Thermal?

There are two main types of night optics that can be used for hunting. They each have their advantages and disadvantages and it can be a good idea to ask yourself what to you are going to use the night equipment for, before deciding what type you want.

The first type is “IR-optics” which, via infrared light and special lenses, can capture light and images that are otherwise invisible to the human eye, and reproduce it all on a screen. With IR technology, the dark world around you suddenly becomes possible to follow and you can see both animals and trees quite clearly. However, the animals must be free of bushes and trees before one can see them, Just as you know it from ordinary hunting.

IR optics – Pros

  • A more natural picture than with thermal = easier to assess the situation
  • Easy to see the characteristics and details of the animals (better assessment of animals)
  • Most often cheaper than Thermal equipment
  • Can in many cases be mounted on your regular riflescope

Ir optics – Cons

  • Difficult to catch animals that are “camouflaged” In or up against trees
  • Foggy weather can be an obstacle to a good picture
  • Typically does not operate at as long distances as at thermal
  • Sytong HT-66 with Sony OLED screen
    Sytong HT-66 with Sony OLED screen
  • Pard NV008P European - Digital Day & Night Scope
    Pard NV008P European – Digital Day & Night Scope
    Product on sale

The other type of night optics that exist is the “thermal optics” which, with the help of sensors, detect and show temperature differences and heat signatures. This means that a piece of game, which is warm-blooded, will stand out sharply in the sight. The greater the difference in temperature, the sharper an image you will experience.

Thermal optics – Pros

  • Can spot game, even deep in forests, or behind shrubs and leaves
  • Can pick up heat signatures over long distances
  • Is not as challenged by weather conditions as IR binoculars

Thermal optics – Cons

  • Gives a clear picture of the game even if it is behind small bushes and leaves = risk of bad shots
  • Does not work very well in daylight
  • Difficult to assess the animal’s details and characteristics
  • Most often larger and heavier than IR optics
  • Usually more expensive than IR optics

Our own choice of night optics

The fact is that alot of european hunters use their night optics to hunting wildboar and other game at feeding plots or other places, where the shooting distance is short and the location is carefully selected for the purpose. This type of hunting can be done with must of the equipment on the market, and a good clear picture and a “working distance” of about 200 meters will in most cases be more than enough

That is why we actually recommend most hunters, one of the so-called “clip-on” models. A clip-on is a small IR-scope that are mounted on the regular riflescope and thereby turns it into a night sight. Clip-on is the cheapest solution, but do not be intimidated by that. It is actually a really nice solution for most hunters and also a solution we use ourselves.

If you want an even better set-up, it is super efficient to also have a thermal spotter. That way, you can spot the game at a long distance and inside the forest, and then use your clip-on for the actuel shot.

If the Clip-on solution sounds good to you, then we recommend you take a look at our “Sytong HT-66” which is a big thing on the market. The binoculars can be used both as hand spotlights and it can be mounted on your binoculars and then it can be used both night and day.

The Syntong HT-66 is similar in many ways to the popular Pard NV007 which we also sell, but we use the Sytong ourselves. The reason is that the Sytong HT-66 is easier to set up and it is also equipped with a “fish-eye” lens on its IR flashlight. This gives a better and wider image on the screen and therefor a better utilization of the shooting chances.

Common to both products is that they work perfectly well, are easy to carry, and are available at a very affordable price.

You can watch a video where Sytong HT-66 and Pard NV007 are tested against each other here – Click for video

We hope you have become a little wiser about choosing and using night optics and of course we are always ready to answer further questions.

Dan Thompson – Predator Calls

The Dan Thompson Calls

In Scandinavia, Dan Thompson’s PC fox call has for many years been the hunters’ favorite tool for hunting foxes. Professional hunters such as Swedish Ulf Lindroth and Danish Sandor Hestbæk Markus (Wildlife Consultant at the Danish Nature Agency) have for more than 30 years used Dan Thompson  predator calls for hunting foxes and other predators – both at home and abroad. Ulf Lindroth has even produced a film years ago with the title “Lockjakt på räv”, where the effect of Dan Thompson’s PC call is shown in practice.

Dan Thompson’s predator calls are incredibly easy to use, and for this very reason they have for many years been used on the Danish Hunting’ Association’s courses in the use of predator calls for fox hunting. The teacher on these courses was Sandor Hestbæk Markus, who shared his many years of experience with the students.

In the United States, Dan Thompson is known as a legendary predator hunter and his name is for many hunters therefore also synonymous with high quality can say that hunting was in his blood, for at a very early age he was introduced to wolf hunting by his father, who was also a skilled hunter. It is clear to everyone that hunting was his great passion and for a period of his life he even lived in the desert, where he spent his time perfecting his skills, especially in predator hunting. It was these experiences that later led to the development of the iconic Dan Thompson calls that we all know today.

The torch is passed on

As a result of  Dan Thompson’s sudden death from a heart attack in 2011, the family faced a big problem. Who would continue the craft and brand that Dan Thompson had built up over a number of years? There was no one in the family who had a desire or the abilities to be able to take over. The family therefore asked John Haslem, who at this time had been in the company for several years, if he could be interested in taking over the production and driving the brand forward for the benefit of future generations of hunters. He thankfully said yes and was given all the machines and prototypes.

Then John threw himself into an adventure that has been his life ever since. With a solid base in the small workshop in the town of St. George north of Las Vegas John Haslem and his wife Jennette produce around. 8,000 PC-calls a year on the same machines that Dan Thompson left behind and which for many years has produced predator calls of the very highest quality. All the calls are made of the finest American hardwood, which ensures the clear and natural sound that makes Dan Thompson calls so popular.

Meeting the team behind Dan Thompson

In 2018, we participated in the Shot Show fair in Las Vegas and in that connection we had agreed to meet with John Haslem to place a new order for our customers in Europe. In many ways, this was a memorable meeting as it led to John and Jennette choosing us as a distributor of Dan Thompson Calls to the entire European market. We are incredibly proud of this agreement and we are pleased with the trust that John and Jennette have shown us.

Back left to right: John Haslem, Henrik Thomassen, Søren Andersen. Front left to right: Jenette Haslem and Tina Andersen

In January 2020, we had the pleasure of visiting John and Jenette in St. George, where we experienced how unique the production is. John showed the production from start to finish, from round bar to predator call. We were also allowed to start the CNC machine ourselves and make our very own Dan Thompson decoy call.

From round bar to predator call

  • The wood is cut into big rods
  • The rods are then made into  round bars.
  • The bars are cut into smaller pieces.
  • The pieces are then rotated and milled on an old CNC milling machine, following a carefully coded program depending on the call.
  • The calls are drilled out.
  • The calls are sanded smooth, which highlights the patterns in the wood.
  • The Reeds are pressed manually with a steel t-piece.
  • Each call is quality checked in relation to its looks and shape.
  • The calls are now sent to a partner who makes sure that they receive a coating in camouflage finish or a high-gloss varnish.
  • When the calls return, every single one is hand-tuned and adjusted by John Haslem to ensure the perfect sound and lure effect
  • Jennette finally puts on stickers, packaging and packs the calls for shipping to hunters around the world.

A memory from the meeting

John and Jennette had a box with PC-calls, which had been sorted out due to too large knots or even bullet remains in the wood. We had the opportunity to choose some of these calls to take home as a reminder of a great day. Extraordinarily, we were also invited home in private, where we saw John’s home office with Dan Thompson calls ready for shipping, prototypes, merchandise and the loose reeds that form a big part of the secret behind the unique sound.

We were proud and very humbled to visit John and Jennette, and to be able to offer the Dan Thompson calls around europe. It commits us to work hard every day, to live up to their trust and the story behind the name Dan Thompson Calls.

  • Image showing PC3 fox call from Dan Thompson in a brown finish
    Dan Thompson PC3 Predator Call
  • Dan Thompson BD1 Bird in Distress Call
    Dan Thompson BD1 Bird in Distress Call
  • Image of the Dan Thompson PC1D Predator Call
    Dan Thompson PC1D Extreme Range Double Jackrabbit
  • Dan Thompson Raccoon Dog Call RD1
    Dan Thompson Raccoon Dog Call RD1
  • Image of the Dan Thompson PC2 Predator Call
    Dan Thompson PC2 Predator Call
  • Image of the Dan Thompson PC2D Extreme Range Double Cottontail Call
    Dan Thompson PC2D Extreme Range Double Cottontail Call
  • Image of the Dan Thompson PC4 Baby Jackrabbit Call
    Dan Thompson PC4 Baby Jackrabbit Call
  • Image of the Dan Thompson PC5 Baby Cottontail Call
    Dan Thompson PC5 Baby Cottontail Call